1987 Honda Accord

Last week I replaced the vacuum choke opener. I knew it wasn’t holding vacuum, but I wasn’t sure that it was getting the correct vacuum signals from the thermovalve, so I was hesitance to replace it. Anyhow, it was the best $40 I spent in a while. Now that the weather is cooler, my car was running like crap when it was cold, because the thing was choking itself to death. The choke wasn’t opening very much until the electric choke came into play which took a few minutes. So for the first couple minutes my car was running, it felt like it was running on 2 cylinders. And the car wouldn’t run at fast idle. I had also had the choke propped open a bit, so starting the car required priming the carb about 4 times, and even then starting could take a couple tries. Now with the new opener, the thing runs like a dream. It runs smooth right from the start. It starts with only priming the carb about twice, and it starts reliably. The fast idle is working correctly. It runs at about 2000rpm, and after a minute or two it runs at around 1500, then after a couple more it idles around 1100, until it settles down to about 800 when fully warm. The fast idle unloader still doesn’t work, so you have to tap the throttle to get it to come off the fast idle cam. But I usually only let my car idle a minute or less before driving, so it’s mostly a moot point. And since the car isn’t being force to run rich when it’s cold, it even warms up a bit faster. I am very pleased. The car has crossed 188K, and it’s due for it’s next oil change. I’m also still planning to replace the radiator as soon as I can find the time. The radiator still isn’t leaking, but a large amount of the fins on the bottom are all rotted out. Oh, and I just realized that I completely forgot to write an update when I put new tires on my car. I installed four Kuhmo Touring A/A 795 that I got from The Tire Rack. Basically they were the cheapest tire with a brand name I’m familiar. I think they did help improve wet handling of my car, and once it snows, I’m sure I’ll be glad to have them.

I just had to get this picture, and it was totally worth it.

Okay, so I changed the oil and filter at around 185K.

Last week I replaced the sway bar link bushings.  I still have the noise I was hoping to eliminate.  It must be coming from somewhere else.  I fixed my headlight that had fallen out of alignment due to a broken spring. I just used some wire to hold it in place.  I lubricated my clutch pedal, but I can’t remember if the squeek is gone.  I got so used to the noise, I don’t notice it, and if the noise is gone, then there is nothing to notice.  *shrugs*  I also adjusted the choke for better cold weather starting and idling.  But now I need to turn the fast idle down a little bit.

My next big mileage milestone is coming up.  186,282.4
Any geek knows why I’ll be taking pictures when the odometer rolls over to that.

I readjusted the timing belt, and the noise is virtually gone. It can still slightly be heard in a very narrow RPM range, but I’m calling it good enough. I’m no longer aware of it, unless I listen for it, which is fine. I identified one of the clunking noises when making sharp turns as being caused by the rotted out sway bar links. So I’m thinking before winter comes along I’m going to try and replace the radiator, sway bar links and get some new tires on the car. The tires still have some tread left, but they are POS tires, and I’d be happy to replace them, especially since 13 inch tires are very cheap compared to the 15 inch and larger tires that are common on virtually all cars sold today.

So the car will go on. The bolt was easily extracted, and I installed a new bolt, washer, pulley, lower timing cover, and I threw on a new timing belt while I was in there. Unfortunately the car now makes a whining noise, which I think is caused by an overtensioned timing belt. I followed the tensioning instructions exactly, but the noise persists. Stupid car.

It’s been a while, I know.
But it would be negligent if I didn’t post today. You see, on my morning commute today, the crankshaft pulley broke off. I was in traffic on the highway, and I heard a slight noise. I turned down the radio and I heard a little “clunk, clunk” and then the alternator light came on. As I pulled off to the side of the road, I realized my power steering was gone. I popped the hood, and I looked down, and the crank pulley was just resting down on the frame, and the belts were just hanging there. The bolt had sheered off, and half of it remains in the crankshaft. The pulley was covered in fine metal and plastic shavings. The lower timing cover has an arc shaped groove carved into it.If you read my old posts, I made mention of the pulley wobbling. I guess it finally had enough. Could I drill out the bolt, retap the hole, and try and install a new pulley and bolt? Yes I probably could. Will I? Do I want to? These are questions that remain.
I am driving a rental, and seriously considering purchasing a new car. And when I say new, I don’t mean “new to me” I mean the actual “new.”
Stupid crankshaft pulley. :-(

My car hit 180,000 miles today. I almost missed it even though I knew since Monday that it would hit that mileage on my commute home today. I looked down and wondered why my odometer showed so many zeros. It took me quite by surprise, but I grabbed my camera phone and snapped a photo at 180,000.4.

Not much else going on with the car. Some new noises, some old noises returned, still gets me where I need to go.

So I tightened up the alternator belt to stop it from squealing. That was a couple days ago. In the process I noticed that my crank pulley continues to move about a lot while the engine idles. It seems a little worse than the last time I looked at it. Anyhow I asked an experienced tech what his opinion of it was. I thought it was probably the thrust bearing for the crankshaft. He agreed. But he asked about my clutch, and so suddenly I realized how a bunch of different problems are related to the thrust bearing being shot. This is causing the crankshaft to move about excessively, which makes it nearly impossible for the clutch to engage smoothly. This is also stretching out the accessory belts which is why they just can’t stay silent for long. And it’s also probably the cause of the idle vibration. So of course, the most likely cause of my clutch chatter and the wobbling crank pulley is the completely worn out thrust bearing. The problems are one and the same. I wonder how long before the condition becomes terminal.

On a side note, due to a different work commute, and the warmer weather my car is now getting 35MPG.

I adjusted my clutch yesterday. For the life of me I don’t know why I didn’t do that sooner. The clutch was out of adjustment, and I was probably stretching the cable because of it. It’s also probably the easiest thing I’ve ever done to me car. It’s just one little thumbscrew, and despite not having been touched in three years (I know!) it moved freely.

I also had to add oil. I was down about a half quart. I guess my car has started burning it.

I’ve been too lazy and uninspired to make a post recently. But it is the new year, so here’s what’s new.
I was having some carb problems, which I still am. The problems all pertain to the cold idle, especially when the weather is below freezing. I know that the choke unloader, and the fast idle unloader can’t hold vacuum, and I think that one or more of the thermovalves is also not working properly. For now, I’ve basically just disabled the fast idle. A few times my car was idling at or above 3,000RPM. That’s just ridiculous.

I changed my oil at about 171,500 miles. I wish I used 5W-30 oil, but I stuck with the 10W-30. You can feel how thick the 10W oil is when the weather is real cold.

My formerly leaking tire is holding pressure just fine.

My alternator belt squeaks occasionally, despite being tightened not long ago. I hope I didn’t over tighten it.

I observed my headlights dim slightly when pressing the brake, or any other significant electrical load (blower fan, rear defroster.) I guess this is a sign of an alternator problem, which is probably related to the belt noise mentioned above.

That is all.